When I checked the surf yesterday, the sky was grey, a layer of dense cloud cover obscured the sun. I drove around for a bit, trying to find a wave worth riding. Most spots were looking mushy and weak. Minimal spring south swells with light onshore winds aren’t my choice conditions, especially after a winter of pumping surf. 

After I enjoyed my lax drive, blasting the new Kadavar record, I found a decent wave somewhere in Ocean Grove. I stood on the boardwalk as I watched what appeared to be a few fun right handers coming in off one of the jetties. Two months earlier and I would have gone back to bed. But with summer on the way, we need to take what we can get. I figured if I could get a few good turns off, it’s better than not surfing at all.


I called my friend Colin McNamara and we met up to trade off a few dribbly waves. Colin just returned from a winter long stay in Puerto Rico and quick excursion to Puerto Escondido. He is a skilled surfer, killing both small and large surf. He’s lived in Australia, Hawaii, Mexico and Puerto Rico over the past 5 years. When we first started surfing together he was just a little grom, around twelve years old. It was obvious even then that he had talent and I tried my best at the time to help nurture it. Now at twenty five years of age his surfing has really blossomed and he’s long surpassed my level of surfing. His approach is a perfect mix of precision airs and hacks, blended with old school power and style.


As we paddled out we tried to position ourselves in front of the jetty. The current was ripping so hard, we kept getting dragged just north of the peak. Despite the somewhat obnoxious current, we picked off our share of fun ones in the lack luster conditions. Colin was boosting solid airs on almost every wave he caught. I was going for hacks and rebounds, struggling a bit to generate speed towards oncoming sections.


The overcast conditions with the sun burning to shine through, coupled with the unusually cold May waters, created a dense fog. Quickly the ocean and beach front were covered behind the condensed water vapor. Catching a few more waves, we decided to call it a day and put our foggy surf session to an end.

Photos: Shawn Zappo and Colin McNamara. All photos by Christor Lukasiewicz.

Leave a Reply

Like Us!

© 2012-2013 Limited Risk, Inc.