On March 20th the Sun crossed the celestial equator going northward; then rose exactly due east and set exactly due west. This is called the Vernal Equinox, or simply, the first day of spring.

Although we are midway through May, symptoms of the winter season have been lingering. For most these wintery remnants are hanging around a bit too long. Surfers are one tribe that await the winter season and all it’s harshness. Stiff offshore winds, solid overhead surf and super hollow barrels are what come to our minds. Not to speak of the uncrowded beaches and empty line ups. Even with that said, I must admit after a few months of freezing cold weather, being wrapped in thick rubber and more than a handful of ice cream headaches, spring warmth and sun are always welcomed with open arms. 

Drew-Eastwood--Tube--Photo-3Drew Eastwood was ripping all morning. I saw him get a few switch stance tubes going right. Here he is pulling into a frontside one on a left wedge.

We haven’t had much of a spring to speak of so far. Sure,  we’ve had a few nice days here and there. But overall, it’s been a bit chilly for this time of year. As they say, one man’s trash is another man’s treasure. So what some may consider a less than wonderful spring has led to some fun waves for us surfers.

Shawn_Zappo-_Cresting_lip-_Photo_7My 6’6″ Chaize single fin was perfect for stalling and getting slotted on these little waves. Waiting for the pitching lip to throw out.

Last Sunday into this past Monday was a real treat weather-wise for just about anyone. Somewhat of a convergence of winter and spring conditions. Fairly warm and sunny, but with steady, offshore winds. The groomed waist to chest high waves were stacking into rows of perfect peeling tubes.

Bear_Dude-_Tube_2-_Photo_5Beard dude on another perfect one.

I caught the swell both days, at a spot I will not name, with only a handful of guys out. Photographer Christor Lukasiewicz choose to surf Sunday instead of shooting photos. But he came out with his camera a bit on Monday, snapping a few shots of the boys trading off waves during an uncrowded weekday session.

Left_peeling_tube-_Photo_6An empty peeling left for your mind surfing pleasure.

It was fun to enjoy some clean, chilly tubes with just a few fellow surfers before the sweltering days of knee high onshore slop set in.

Hope you got some. If not, no worry. Looks like some serious swell for next Monday.

Shawn_Zappo-_Tube_from_the_bottom-_Photo_4One day we were shooting photos, Christor told me not to bail if I thought I was going to run him over. I thought for sure I was going to crack his skull on this wave, but I listened to his direction.

Shawn-Zappo-Tube-and-Sky--Photo-1I had a lot of fun small tubes during this session. Squeezing my 6’3″ frame into another micro barrel.

Photos by Christor Lukasiewicz. At Top: I didn’t catch this surfer’s name but he was pulling into a lot of perfect ones.


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