We started out the winter season of 2013 with two solid swells. The first, now known as the “Doomsday” swell, produced double overheard dredging barrels. The following swell the next week was somewhat similar, hollow, heavily pitching, chocolate milk brown tubes. Not quite as sizable as the preceding swell, yet tons of fun nonetheless.

For surfers it was the perfect way to breathe fresh life into the new year. 

Then after all the excitement, we flatlined.

For the next few weeks the ocean wasn’t showing any sign of life in the way of rideable surf. As time went on my overall attitude was changing in the midst of the short, grey veiled days. I realized it had been too long since my last surf session, I was getting a bit grumpy and bent out of shape about trivial things. The connection between my mood and the time I spend in the water is profoundly apparent. The skills we need to surf such as balance, agility, patience, strength, flexibility, attention and a calm mental state are all equally important in our emotional lives. Sadly, as I miss too many days in the water, I lose a bit of all those things. I hope in the future I will be able to carry my stoke with me constantly, no matter what the situation. But I know I’m not there yet. So I really need to cultivate my connection with the ocean to keep my spirits high, especially in the winter months.

Last weekend we had a blip on the screen so to speak. It wasn’t much, but pulling up seeing waist high surf on Saturday with light offshore winds instantly put a smile on my face. I met up with Tom Contarino about an hour later in Long Branch, no one was out for as far as the eye could see. We suited up, quickly paddled out and traded off some mushy peaks while talking about a film project. The weather was wet and grey yet again, but after our short session my entire attitude was adjusted.

We had two more following days of small, fun waves. Nothing like the first two swells of the winter, yet just enough to scratch my itch to get in the water and catch some waves. Now I’m awaiting something more substantial. Looks like this upcoming Sunday may have some fun waves on the horizon for us.

See you in the water.

Photo: Timmy Smith

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