REBORN THROUGH SURFING

I’ve had the supreme displeasure of feeling dead inside. About 6 years ago I was in the grip of a long and dark depression. I was barely able to eat and had very little will to keep living. I had lost over 40 pounds in those 2 years as the chronic melancholy crushed me without mercy. The ocean and the riding of her waves has always been a sanctuary to me. I can paddle out and in that mystical place I am washed of the filth that modern civilization has dirtied me in. But even my ability to surf had seemed to be slipping away when I needed it most. I felt uncomfortable in the water, I had trouble simply catching waves and when I got to my feet it was as if all those years of surfing meant nothing.

Now this is not a piece on my depression but rather on the transformation of my approach to surfing. But that depression was the impetus for me to open up to riding different equipment beyond the standard three fin short board set up I had used for the previous 20 years.

I started surfing at age 11 on a 5’5” and had ridden short boards my whole life. Back then to me riding anything else was something “kooks” or washed up old men did. But now in my thirties, I went out and purchased a 7’6” egg. It seemed like my only option. Get the basics back or accept that surfing was going to no longer be part of my life.

The next few sessions that followed were some of the most fun I had in years. I caught waves with ease, I was able to get into waves much earlier. Instead of setting up under the lip to get barreled, I could be well into a hard bottom turn much deeper down the line. Everything felt smoother. Even my attitude internally and outwardly in the water seemed to change.

From that egg I went to various boards and fin set-ups. Single fins, Widow Makers, quads, twins and the like. I could take what I had learned all those years surfing so-called high performance boards and mix it with the new-found casual feeling of riding what people call alternative or retro surf equipment.

While riding these various boards I noticed I drew new lines on a wave I never had before. I went to places on the wave I had at one time overlooked. In the past, I had been so consumed with squeezing turns into every part of the wave I never took the time to really feel my surfing. In the past I had forced many turns and had a lot of extra body movement. Now I was trimming the fat from my surfing. Instead of being so maneuver focused, I was now looking for style and feel.

With the decision to buy that 7’6’ egg to save my surfing I had at the time unknowingly opened a new chapter in my surfing life.  From there I also had gained what I would call a deeper level of experience and understanding while riding waves.

The mainstream magazines and surf films had dictated to me how I should be surfing. Now I was being guided by what felt good to me rather than by the status quo.

Shawn Zappo is a local surfer and skater who rules the stoves at Kaya’s Kitchen in Belmar. He’s also a musician and will be writing about his surf and skate related experiences as well as reviews on bands and whatever the hell else he feels like writing about.

5 Responses to “REBORN THROUGH SURFING”

  1. Bianca says:

    Nice insight Shawn, thanks for sharing your story. Looking forward to reading more from you 🙂

  2. Seth says:

    Its all about riding waves Shawn, good story…

  3. ….and motorcycles.

  4. Shawn Zappo says:

    Bianca-Thanks for taking the time to read and I’m glad you enjoyed it.
    Seth-We need to surf, I just tried to hit you up on FB but realized-you have gone AWOL.
    Jason-I’m not ready for a motorcycle. I think I need to start with a moped. 😉

  5. tim says:

    great article, so true – ” Now I was being guided by what felt good to me rather than by the status quo..”

Leave a Reply


Like Us!

© 2012-2013 Limited Risk, Inc.