It’s hellishly hot. The air is thick and sticky. The humidity seems like sap dripping down the side of a tree. There is just enough of a slight breeze out of the west to make the heat temporarily bearable. I’m sitting in my car, broken down on the side of the road, awaiting the arrival of a tow truck.

As I watch time creep slowly forward, there is a jolt of anxious energy that works its way through my body. I worry if I’ll be late for my scheduled surf lessons. I’m even more worried about what’s exactly wrong with my car. I know worrying is not only a waste of time, but an energy drainer and negativity attracter. I figure while I sit here I shouldn’t get wrapped up in my head. I’m lucky enough to have a pen and pad with me.

I choose to write.

The weather extremities we experience each season are drastic. I take notice as my body steadily heats up, my skin glistening as it becomes covered in a thin layer of sweat. I could easily fool myself into thinking I was somewhere in the tropics.

Dave-Sincox-1Dave Sincox

Living in the Northeast teaches you a lot of things. That is if you’re paying attention. The duality of living on this planet and the impermanence of any situation. There’s also the need for patience. Apparently staying power is something I still need practice in. I sit. I wait.

As I’m somewhat forced into this state of contemplation, my gears stop grinding in worry and slip into the gear marked “S” for surfing.  Although the surf has been weak overall lately, I’ve surfed a good amount this summer. I’ve had enough consistent water time for my body to tell me I need some rest. My ankles, back, knees and hips all feel it. Most days I surfed knee to waist high sets at best, barely enough swell to warrant paddling out. It makes me happy my girlfriend ordered that 8’ mid-length when she did; my worst nightmare is to surf micro waves on something I have to actually force to move. There was a time when I considered myself a fairly good small wave surfer on a shortboard; now it’s just about the last thing I want to do.

Shawn-Zappo-1Shawn Zappo

Paddle, pop up, cruise. Less is more. Simplicity.

A longer board is a necessity on the East Coast. That is if you want to log the maximum amount of time in the water. A big board gives you the smoothest glide on small and weak waves. You’re doing less, the board does more and the feeling is blissful and serene. If it’s only knee high and clean, no need to complain; shut up and cruise.

Dave-Sincox-2Dave Sincox

As two girls speed past, foamies strapped to the roof of their car, I wonder if there’s another day of small mini peelers awaiting me in the ocean. Just as the tow truck arrives, I can feel the sweat start to bead, then flow down my back.

Time to cool off with yet another summer session on meek surf. No complaints here.

Photos by Christor Lukasiewicz

Shawn-Zappo-3Shawn Zappo

Dave-Sincox-3Dave Sincox


  1. dee sincoc says:

    Awesome article about my son, Dave. So proud of you!

  2. Soni says:

    The best thing is that this house is across the road from a short lentgh of coast that has all kinds of waves breaking on it beachies and a right AND a left hand point so there’s lots of chances to try out all kinds of boards.

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  9. z4 insurance says:

    Lo dico io prima che me lo facciate notare voi: lo so che sono in ritardo e che i dati di Dicembre sono usciti proprio oggi… al piu' presto mi rimetto in pari 😉

  10. Too bad more voters aren’t able to or refuse to think through the layers of rhetoric presented in the media. Because we could all wind up on that bloodless train and not know what the hell happened…

  11. Uh oh! Hmmm…maybe my hypothesis is lacking something then since you find the opposite to be true That is very interesting though. What I also find interesting for myself is my perception of time when I travel. When I first get to my destination and everything seems new and exciting, time actually seems to slow for me. Again, I think it’s because I’m more mindful and in the moment…kind of like there is no time. But as I get to a routine in my travels, specifically on longer trips, time seems to speed up again. Kind of a ‘woah – that went quick’ feeling.

  12. http://www./ says:

    Hi Zsófi, sorry to crash into your Hungarian discussion here:) I saw the movie in the cinema few years ago, and really loved it. It’s such a sad, sweet, charming story, isn’t it. I bought a DVD, and have watched it every few months. Did you like it?

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