SUMMER MAKES WAY FOR AUTUMN

“Summer ends, and Autumn comes, and he who would have it otherwise would have high tide always and a full moon every night.” -Hal Borland

It was a cruel summer for surfers. Like many I thought the Andrea swell that hit in early June, coupled with the amazing winter of surf we had prior, meant an above average summer was on the way. Why? I had no science behind my belief of a summer graced with amazing surf. Just feeling a bit positive I suppose.

Either way, it wasn’t the case. The waves were mostly pathetic for the majority of the summer. We had a few swells that resembled actual surf, but the majority of what we had was not what we dream of as surfers.

Although the surf was below average, I surfed a lot this summer. In fact if there was anything that resembled a wave, I was in the water. My stoke for just about anything may have been due to my post traumatic stress that was induced by my actually missing the Andrea swell. I’m not sure to be honest. But I surfed more days than I didn’t and I had fun doing so.

Summer-Line-up-in-Northern-Monmouth-CountyNorthern Monmouth County

The fact that most days were waist high or smaller caused very little complaint from me. I usually caught it with good wind and clean lines, perfect for cruising on a longboard. I felt quite satisfied enjoying the uncomplicated pleasure of gliding across clean peeling faces with minimal body movement and embodying the “less is more” philosophy. I did break out some smaller boards a handful of times this summer, when the waves were just about chest high. Otherwise I chose the “orange peel” as I affectionately nicknamed my small wave sliding instrument.

Flailing about like an injured seagull isn’t my stylistic approach of choice, so at 6’3″ I stuck to using a log most days. I was feeling the “trim” man. Getting super soulful. Maybe just getting fucking old, or worse yet, lazy! In truth it wasn’t either, just choosing to use equipment that best suited the conditions.

Ed-the-DreadEd the Dread

But the summer of 2013 has now officially passed and autumn is upon us. The beaches are empty, the line ups less dense. Yet something is missing. What are those things called again? Waves!

Sure we had a bit of a bump on Sunday but it left most people walking off the beach feeling unsatisfied at best, down right aggravated at worst. I saw one of my friends checking the surf after my morning session. I told him jokingly “you should have been here earlier”. He said “this sucks” crankily, then walked away without even saying goodbye. Dude was bummed, I was even more bummed that my comment added to his bummer.

Tom-Curren-sliding-the-tail-at-the-recent-Belmar-ProTom Curren at recent Belmar Pro

I figure a few good waves is better than none and the only constant is change. We’ve been in a lack-of-real-surf funk for a good amount of time now. But it’s only a matter of time before we get some juicy bowls, a day that hangs around in our memory banks for a while.

While we wait, forbearance would be the best state of being to adopt. When the waves finally arrive, that much more the gratitude we will have.

Unknown-surfer-putting-it-on-the-rail-in-weak-conditions

Shawn-Zappo-Backside-of-the-lipShawn Zappo

 

 

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