But more wonderful than the lore of old men and the lore of books is the secret lore of ocean. -H. P. Lovecraft

Surfers are drawn to the ocean by what seems to be a deep rooted yet undefinable connection. The roar of a building swell summons the surfer not unlike a lover beckoning to their beloved. The sound of waves rising and crashing, hitting the shoreline like a lion’s roar, resonates with the heart of the surfer. The wild call of the sea can be likened to a church bell ringing out to parishioners for a Sunday morning mass. Our place of worship is the sea…the altar, walls of moving salt water we call waves.

The ocean is the place of communion for those who know the simple joy of riding waves. When we paddle out for a surf, we come into union with our natural surroundings, the creatures we share the planet with, as well as other fellow surfers. Surfing is often seen as a frivolous activity among the conventional crop.Those who never felt the spark of pure freedom, nor the falling away of self while immersed in the moment. It is hard for some to comprehend the gifts that a life committed to sliding across the face of waves can bestow upon the practitioner. Even harder still is to understand why the surfer sacrifices so much so they may catch the surf on the right day.

Brandon_GalarzaBrandon Galarza

Denny_Hood_2Denny Hood

As surfers, we come together with other surfers to share waves, challenge one another, cleanse the body and mind, and elevate the soul; all while hooting and hollering each other on like little children at play. When you are truly surfing well, the moment is all that exists, and in truth the moment is all that ever exists. Right here, right now. There is nothing else but the eternal present. Past and future are but phantoms of the mind’s eye.

All photo’s by Christor Lukasiewicz. 9/13/2013. Photo at top: Mikey Hughes

Bradley-Beach-Line-UpThe Bradley Beach lineup

Denny-HoodDenny Hood

Shawn-ZappoShawn Zappo

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